Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Frey Vineyards: America's largest and oldest all-organic winery

Have you ever just lost yourself in an amazing glass of wine? I had a Cabernet Sauvignon this week that just melted away my hectic day and left me feeling thankful for the opportunity to enjoy it. I am talking about Frey Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon. The first whiff of this full bodied wine exploded with intense dark chocolate and rich berries, and it got better from there. I am not usually impressed with Cabs in general, so it just goes to show you how fabulous this wine is! I have made it my weekends mission to hunt down bottles of their Syrah, Merlot and Pinot Noir next. Life's tough. Ha!

Tasting Notes 2008 Frey Cabernet Sauvignon:

Gorgeous deep purple color. Black cherry, berry, chocolate and herb aromas follow through on a round, supple entry to a dry-yet-fruity full body and topped with nutmeg notes. Finishes with a crisp, tongue coating dusty tannin fade. Slip it slowly with Fair Trade organic chocolate. (I did...this is good advice!)

Alcohol: 12.9% by volume.

Total sulfite, naturally occurring: TTB analysis, none detected.

Total production: 8,500 cases.
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Frey Vineyards is considered to be America's largest and oldest all-organic winery and is a leader in Demeter certified Biodynamics. All Frey wine labels carry the certified organic label and they were the first in the United States to be authorized to add the Biodynamic designation on their wine labels. The main difference between biodynamic and other organic wines is that the Biodynamic wine standards guide the winemakers to produce wines that are minimally manipulated. Their emphasis at Frey Vineyards is on producing organic wines of the highest quality and if that fabulicious (yep, I said it) Cabernet Sauvignon was any indication, they are on the right track!

Frey's wines are made in the biodynamic tradition, with no cultured yeast or malolactic bacteria and no acid or sugar adjustments. Even though biodynamics does allow sulfites to be added to wine, Frey believes this practice goes against Biodynamic principles. They avoid any inputs from outside the system and believe grapes contain all the natural antioxidants and phytonutrients to give their wine staying power through aging in the bottle. The result of their efforts is unique wine that mirrors the richness of the very land it's grown on.

For more info on their organic, vegan, gluten free and biodynamic wines, visit Frey online here. I heartily recommend you seek out some of their fabulous wines if not in your local store, then online in their wine shop!

The winery is open from 10AM to 5PM. They request that you call ahead for tasting appointments at 800.760.3739.

PF Chang's introduces exclusive eco-friendly wines May 18!

P.F. Chang's China Bistro is introducing its new Vineyard 518 wines today 5-18. These wines will be available only at PF Chang restaurants. Free samples will be poured for guests today with a special toast at 5:18 p.m. at most P.F. Chang locations. To locate the nearest PF Chang's click here.

The Vineyard 518 line include a white wine and a red wine. The 518 Sauvignon Blanc has a nice white peach and orange blossom with touches of an herbal character. The flavor showcases orange and lemon flavors with crisp grassy notes. The Syrah blend offers a rich dark fruit with hints of black pepper and spice. This wine has been blended with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel to add to it's overall complexity.

The restaurant chose the number 518 for this line of wine because the number means "I will prosper" in Chinese numerology. Mary Melton, PF Chang's beverage director says that "we want to share that good fortune with our guests and offer them high quality, eco-friendly wine at a great value."

The grapes come from the Yorkville Highlands appellation, which is a high altitude, coastal region of Mendocino County, California. The wines are being produced by Wattle Creek Winery exclusively for PF Changs.

The grapes for the 518 wines are sustainably grown and harvested. They are also shipped in 10-liter fully-recyclable container. This environmentally kind approach really helps reduce the products carbon foot print during shipping because a full box weighs half that of a case of wine.

Stop by your local PF Chang's China Bistro and try out these new eco-friendly wines!

Public demand for organic wine is great

Public demand for organic wine is on the rise in the US. In most wine shops today you are able to find an organic section, unlike years ago when you had to hunt them down. The public demand for organic food and wine is attributed partially to a more sophisticated understanding of and belief in organic methods. More so, it is likely being driven by public outcry over pesticide-laden foods, irradiated or genetically altered crops and an overall desire for a safe and more wholesome food supply. Recent news of studies linking pesticides to ADHD in children just reinforces the public demand for safer foods.

While it used to be that most organic wines were made in small boutique wineries, today many large wineries are now converting to more sustainable methods. Giants like Beringer, Buena Vista, Fetzer, Gallo of Sonoma, Mondavi and many other big producers are converting to organic methods.

Tim Mondavi of the Robert Mondavi family of wineries, says that in the past, when faced with using a repressive technology, like pesticides, or an inspired technology, like using a cover crop to help establish beneficial insects that control pests naturally, the inspired technology always proved to be a better method. Most organic growers believe that healthy soil produces healthy vines and healthy vines produce healthy grapes which translates into excellent wine.

So what qualifies as organic wine?

Organic wines are produced under the watchful eye of USDA-approved certifying agencies, like Stellar Certification Services, Quality Assurance International, California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), Oregon Tilth, Washington State Department of Agriculture's Organic Food Certification Program and several others. These certifying agencies make sure the vineyards follow the guidelines set by the USDA's National Organic Program (NOP). To be certified organic, the wine has to be made with organically grown grapes and without any added sulfites. The sulfite issues divides many winemakers with both sides firmly planted in their beliefs. However, to be CERTIFIED as an organic wine under current US organic standards, the wine may not include any added sulfites.

So why look for organic products?

Many consider organic farming to be superior to more "conventional" farming. These people claim organic grape farming yields more nutritious fruit, improves the farm's overall soil condition, as well as being safer for farm workers and yields great results of higher quality grapes that make excellent wines.

(This is a multi-part series on certified organic wines and winemaking. Read part 2 of this article series here.)

Some great online organic resources:

http://www.rodaleinstitute.org/new_farm
http://www.organic-center.org
http://www.ota.com
http://organicconsumers.org
http://organicconsumers.org
http://ifoam.org
http://omri.org
http://biochar-international.org

Public demand for organic wine is great (part 2)

There are some growing pains in switching from conventional grape growing to certified organic farming. Many top wine producers choose to farm sustainably but they either don't want to commit to the three year transitional period to be come certified organic, or they want to keep their options open. In some cases, wines are referred to as organically grown or made with sustainably farmed grapes. Neither of these would be considered certified organic wines even though they may have been farmed organically. They may contain added sulfites (which is a no-no if you want to be certified organic) or they may use practices in the winemaking process that are not allowed in certified organic wines.

There is a human health aspect of growing organically. The synthetic pesticide sprays can be quite dangerous to farm workers. The good news though, is that the amount of toxic chemicals implicated in farm worker sicknesses/deaths and in public cancer rates, has been declining as farmers favor what the California Department of Pesticide Regulation calls "reduced-risk" pesticides--those being less synthetic pesticides and more natural preparations like those used in organic farming.

The end product from conventional grape growers that utilize synthetic pesticides may possibly have a health impact on consumers. In a 2008 study,researchers studying 40 wines from several continents found 35 of those wines contained traces of residual pesticides. Two of those wines were French award winners (at over $300 per bottle). The 5 bottles that were uncontaminated were made from organic grapes. One organic wine had traces of pesticides in it, which was attributed to a neighboring farm that used conventional pesticides.

The list of additives that are permitted to be in conventional wine is quite long and a bit scary. Tartaric acid, mega-red/mega-purple food coloring, calcium carbonate, diammonium phosphate, potassium metabisulfite, enzymes, copper sulfite...the list goes on and on. While not every conventional winemaker uses these products, it is nearly impossible to tell what goes into a wine without an ingredient label. This is one of the things that makes organic wines desireable. Read part 3 of this article series here.

Some online organic resources:

http://www.rodaleinstitute.org/new_farm
http://www.organic-center.org
http://www.ota.com
http://organicconsumers.org
http://organicconsumers.org
http://ifoam.org
http://omri.org
http://biochar-international.org

Public demand for organic wine is great (part 3)

Pest control on the organic farm is very important, as you can imagine. Some use methods favored throughout history, like encouraging certain predators like raptors which prey on rodents (see my article on King Estate and their on site raptor program), and introducing beneficial insects which eat those insects that prey on grape leaves. At an organic farm, unwanted weeds are typically dealt with by hand or machine and are left to compost alongside the vines. Some, non-threatening weeds are left alone.

Natural pesticides and fungicides are utilized (not synthetic pesticides) and only those approved by OMRI are allowed in a certified organic farm. Organic producers will use elemental sulfur, micronized limestone, bacterial sprays to help control crop-devastating things like fungus. While the sulfur is an irritant (it would burn one's eyes or lungs if you happened to get a big dose of it), it is not nearly as toxic as many of the materials used in conventional vineyards. Many of the synthetic pesticides are known carcinogens--like Captan. The main criteria for natural pesticides and fungicides for organic farming according to OMRI is low toxicity.

The list of additives that are permitted to be in conventional wine is quite long and somewhat scary. Tartaric acid, mega-red/mega-purple food coloring, calcium carbonate, diammonium phosphate, potassium metabisulfite, enzymes, copper sulfite...the list goes on and on. While not every conventional winemaker uses these products, it is nearly impossible to tell what goes into a wine without an ingredient label. This is one of the things that makes organic wines desireable.

Organic wine makers use tried and true methods in the winemaking process. For example, in order to avoid oxidation in the winemaking process, many organic winemakers keep their vats filled to the brim until bottling time comes around. Some also may use a layer of carbon dioxide or nitrogen over the wine to protect it from the air. To eliminate any rotten-egg smell from the winemaking process, many aerate their fermenting wines.

Grapes grown organically are thought to contain more natural nutrients which eliminates the need to add synthetic nutrients to the wine to aid in yeast development. To get rid of the cloudiness in a developing wine, organic winemakers can add in organic egg whites which bond with the offending protiens and sink them to the bottom. Several organic producers skip this step in favor of bentonite clay or diatoomaceous earth--which also sinks the protiens to the bottom and is vegan-friendly. Read my article on Frey Vineyards and their vegan friendly wines here.

For more information on organic wines and organic farming methods please visit the following websites:

OMRI: Organic Materials Review Institute http://www.omri.org/

Founded in 1997, the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) provides organic certifiers, growers, manufacturers, and suppliers an independent review of products intended for use in certified organic production, handling, and processing. OMRI is a 501(c)3 nonprofit organization. When companies apply, OMRI reviews their products against the National Organic Standards. Acceptable products are OMRI Listed® and appear on the OMRI Products List. OMRI also provides subscribers and certifiers guidance on the acceptability of various material inputs in general under the National Organic Program.

NOSB: National Organic Standards Board http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/nosb

The Organic Foods Production Act of 1990, part of the 1990 Farm Bill, authorized the Secretary of Agriculture to appoint a 15-member National Organic Standards Board (NOSB). The Board’s main mission is to make recommendations about whether a substance should be allowed or prohibited in organic production or handling, to assist in the development of standards for substances to be used in organic production, and to advise the Secretary on other aspects of the implementation of the OFPA. Read part 1 of this article series here and part 2 here.

Some online organic resources:

http://www.rodaleinstitute.org/new_farm
http://www.organic-center.org
http://www.ota.com
http://organicconsumers.org
http://organicconsumers.org
http://ifoam.org
http://omri.org
http://biochar-international.org

Meet The Vintners Event this weekend at The Carlton Winemakers Studio

May 29-30, 2010 from 11:00am - 4:00pm
Join Carlton Winemakers Studio this weekend, as they throw open their cellar doors and invite you to meet all eight vintners who call The Carlton Winemakers Studio home. This is an exciting opportunity to get to know the personalities and stories behind each label -- first hand! Read all about Carlton Winemakers Studio here.

Enjoy tasting current and new releases from: Andrew Rich, Ayoub, Brittan, Hamacher, Lazy River, Montebruno, Retour and Wahle. More than thirty wines will be poured! Tasting fee is $30.00 and includes a Riedel glass that's yours to keep. Email Jeff Woodard, Wine Director at jeff@winemakersstudio.com or call 503.852.6100 for more information.

THE WINERIES

Andrew Rich Vintner: Over the years, Andrew has created a serious following for his wines. His current ensemble comprises an octet of highly distinctive wines: white, pink, red, redder, sweet-culminating in the sensuous, opulent, and the oh-so-well-balanced Gewurztraminer late harvest wine. His wines are distinctive, innovative, exciting and always a treat to pull from the cellar to share with friends and family.

Ayoub Vineyards: Mohamad “Mo” Ayoub, is an engineer by day and dedicated vintner by night. He's also a graduate from the highly respected Culinary Institute - Hyde Park, in New York. His love for food and wine prompted him to search for the perfect land to plant vines and build a legacy. He recently unveiled a second label "Memoirs" Pinot Noir, which is a tribute to fond recollections with his family.

Brittan Vineyards: After spending 16 years as Winemaker and General Manager for Stags' Leap Winery, Robert Brittan took a flying leap North, to fulfill his dream of making wine in Oregon. Robert and his wife Ellen, own a stunning 128-acre site in the McMinnville Foothills AVA. There are currently 20 acres planted to Pinot Noir and one acre planted to Syrah. They focus on producing two Pinot Noirs: Basalt Block and Gestalt Block.

The Studio Wines: One-of-a-kind, dynamic and full of liquid synergy! These value-driven wines are meant to be paired up with friends, family and of course, great food. Our current releases include an array of wines that will excite any palate. They're also limited in production, extremely approachable and even better - really affordable!

Hamacher Wines: Eric founded Hamacher Wines in 1995, with an uncompromising commitment to quality. In less than a decade, he became one of the most respected and sought after producers in Oregon. He has since established a reputation for being a masterful blender of expressive and balanced Pinot Noir and produces some of the most elegant Chardonnay in the nation.

Lazy River Vineyard: In 2000, Ned and Kirsten Lumpkin planted 36 acres of vines known as The Lazy River Vineyard in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Their 146 acre estate is absolutely breathtaking and overlooks interlocking puzzle pieces of woods, rolling meadows, vines and ponds. In addition to producing wine, they are also co-owners of the Carlton Winemakers Studio. Be sure to ask Ned about skiing or sailing competitively!

Montebruno Wines: In 2003, Joe founded Montebruno Wines with a vision to produce Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer with Old World characteristics, blended with the unique New World terroir in the Willamette Valley. He sources fruit from small and select vineyards that are certified sustainable and works closely with his growers to ensure only the highest quality of fruit is grown. When Joe's not making his wine in Oregon, he's at home in New York where he focuses on hand selling Montebruno to some of the finest restaurants and retail wine shops in the area.

Retour Wine Co.: Lindsay Woodard was born and raised as a sixth generation Oregonian. Her experience in the wine business has been deeply rooted. She escaped Oregon for awhile and was ultimately driven by a passion to return to her roots to create a complex and nuanced Pinot Noir from a tapestry of celebrated, old-vine vineyards in the Willamette Valley. In less than one year, Retour has enjoyed exceptional media accolades and achieved superior placements with fine dining restaurants throughout the nation.

Wahle Cellars and Vineyards: The Wahle Family was one of the first growers in Oregon. In 1974, they chose to plant their vineyard on a 100 acre hilltop in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Mark Wahle, second generation, earned a degree from UC Davis in Enology & Viticulture in 1988. He and his wife, Shaghayegh, planted a second prime vineyard site, Holmes Hill Vineyard in 1999. This 310 acre site is in the Eola Hills AVA.



The BIODYNAMIC® Vineyard Part 2

As mentioned in the first part of this article series, the basic idea of BIODYNAMIC® farming is to see the soil and the vineyard as living organisms. Maintenance of the soil is the primary means by which the vineyard will progress and evolve. Demeter BIODYNAMIC® Certification is given only to those wineries that follow the strict principles of biodynamic farming called for in the Demeter Farm Standard. Demeter, the very first ecological label for organically produced foods, remains the only internationally recognized Biodynamic certifier and consists of a network of individual certification organizations in 45 countries around the world.

Biodynamic agriculture goes beyond certified organic, envisioning the farm/vineyard as a self-contained and self-sustaining organism. In an effort to keep the farm, the farmer, the consumer, and the earth healthy, farmers avoid chemical pesticides and fertilizers, utilize compost and cover crops, and set aside a minimum of 10% of their total acreage for biodiversity. The entire farm, versus a particular crop, must be certified, and farms are inspected annually. In order for a product to bear the Demeter logo, it must be made with certified Biodynamic® ingredients and meet strict processing standards to ensure the purest possible product.

The goal of a vineyard that is biodynamically farmed is to create a farm system on that vineyard that is minimally dependant on imported materials, and instead meets its needs from the living dynamics of the farm itself. It is the biodiversity of the farm, organized so that the waste of one part of the farm becomes the energy for another, that results in an increase in the farm’s capacity for self-­renewal and ultimately makes the farm sustainable. This requires that, as much as possible, a farm be regenerative rather than degenerative. One of the most important social values of Biodynamic farming is that the farm/vineyard does not depend on the mining of the earth’s natural resource base but instead emphasizes contributing to it.

Biodynamic farming is free of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers in the same manner as certified organic farming. In order to qualify for Demeter Biodynamic status a farm must first meet the requirements of NOP organic as a base. Demeter also requires a careful examination and eventual reduction of the volume of imported materials necessary to sustain the life of the farm.

In the Demeter Farm Standard, it is believed that in order to achieve weed control the farmer should be educated about and demonstrate an understanding of the following principles and ideas:

  • Timing of planting
  • Understanding of weed species life cycle
  • Adjusting fertility conditions that promote certain weed species
  • Shade/ crop canopy
  • Mulching
  • Crop rotation

The same idea is used in the area of disease and insect control with the farmer needing to understand and utilize:

  • Botanical species diversity
  • Predator habitat• Biological antagonism
  • Balanced crop nutrition• Attention to light penetration and airflow
  • Conscious use of the Biodynamic preparations (nine preparations made from herbs, mineral substances and animal manures that are utilized in field sprays and compost inoculants applied in minute doses, much like homeopathic remedies are for humans)
  • Crop rotation

All of these methods are put in practice and utilized before any additional treatments can be used.

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**In my previous article about sustainable, organic and biodynamic practices, someone left the comment that "biodynamics is just plain flaky". Rudy Marchesi, of Montinore Estates--a well-established biodynamic winery in Oregon--had this response: "We farm 230 acres of wine grapes, we are Demeter Certified Biodynamic, we harvest full crops of high quality fruit every year and our farming costs per acre are some of the lowest in the valley. If that's "flaky" then I'll be happily flaky all the way to the bank." I have to admit, that response made me giggle.